Wheat has been evolving since its earliest known existence. This evolution has been driven by the demands of both producers and consumers. However, in recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in ancient wheats. In this post, we’ll discuss the evolution of wheat and whether this interest is merely a passing trend or has substantial reasons behind it.

Evolution of Wheat Varieties

The evolution of wheat over time has focused on various aspects, but perhaps the most significant has been achieving higher yields, which both farmers and consumers demand to reduce the cost of flour and derived products. Additionally, ancient wheats used to grow taller, and the plant tended to fall over (lodging), leading to contamination of the grains from contact with the soil and its moisture, posing challenges for harvesting. It’s essential to note that wheat harvesting machinery is designed for plants that remain upright. Nowadays, all modern wheats carry the dwarfing gene, preventing excessive plant growth and lodging. This also translates to lower nutrient consumption for plant growth (not for grain). Another important aspect is the hulled nature of ancient wheats. Many ancient wheats have hulls that remain attached to the grain after harvesting. Therefore, it’s necessary to separate this husk in flour mills using specific equipment, resulting in lower flour yield and generating a certain percentage of bran, which becomes a byproduct. Other aspects such as disease resistance and response to fertilization have also been considered in wheat evolution and the development of new varieties.

In terms of baking quality, modern varieties can produce flours with similar strength from a lower protein content. Through genetic improvement, wheats with proteins more related to gluten strength have been selected and enhanced (mostly high molecular weight glutenins). This has improved yield since protein production is more nutrient-costly in the soil, but it has resulted in slightly tougher and less extensible flours overall.

Ancient Wheats

It’s important to define what constitutes an ancient wheat. Initially, wheat was a diploid plant (two sets of chromosomes), then became tetraploid (four sets of chromosomes), and today’s commercial bread wheat is hexaploid (six sets of chromosomes). Therefore, the plant became more complex over time due to chance crosses. Even today, diploid (T. monococcum or Einkorn) or tetraploid (T. turgidum or Emmer) wheats can still be found in some areas of the world. All these wheats are hulled, but we can also find hulled hexaploid wheats like spelt. In some areas, all these hulled and ancient wheats are grouped under a common name. For example, in Italy, they are called “farro,” and in Asturias (Spain), “escanda,” but these names may include very different wheats. Italian farro is mostly tetraploid (Emmer), while Asturian escanda predominantly features spelt (hexaploid wheat). In general, all these types of hulled wheats in English are referred to as “ancient wheats.”

This classification is not as clear-cut as indicated, and there are some complications. For instance, there is also T. turgidum diploid (wild emmer). In recent decades, there has been some fame around Kamut® wheat, which is a durum wheat (T. turgidum) type Khorasan. This wheat seems to have been found in an Egyptian tomb, although it’s not entirely clear. It’s marketed under a trademark and must be grown organically. Kamut® is related to emmer and modern durum wheat varieties. In Italy, there is a similar initiative, also based on a wheat found in an Egyptian tomb, called Graziella Ra®, which is also a tetraploid T. turgidum. These turgidum wheats (Emmer, Kamut® and similar) are more similar to modern durum wheats (Triticum durum) used for making semolina, mainly for pasta production. These modern durum wheats are also tetraploid, like the ancient wheats we discussed.

There are also naked ancient varieties (without husks), more similar to modern wheats. Ancient naked varieties before the Green Revolution, and therefore before the mid-20th century, have been termed “Landraces” and “old varieties”. These varieties are more modern than spelt but not as modern as modern varieties. The main difference is that modern wheat breeding has considered their response to fertilization, which was not a consideration in old varieties. Another significant difference is that most ancient varieties lack the dwarfing gene and tend to lodge. As mentioned earlier, they usually require higher protein content to achieve similar baking strength. In Spain, notable examples of these varieties are “barbillas” and “candeales.” It’s essential not to confuse Spanish candeal wheats, which are soft wheats used for bread flour and are challenging to find, as these varieties have been almost entirely replaced by modern ones, with candeal wheats from some areas of South America, such as Chile. In these regions, Candeal refers to durum wheat, used for making semolina for pasta production, although flour and bread can also be made from them.

Why Are Ancient Wheats Back in Fashion?

There are several reasons why ancient wheats have gained popularity in recent years. Firstly, the evolution of wheat has led to an obvious loss of genetic variability, and these ancient wheats can provide interesting characteristics. Thus, there is a movement to preserve this heritage. This motivation may justify the existence of seed banks or genetic research that includes these grains, but not necessarily increased consumption.

In addition to genetic diversity, some researchers advocate for the use of these varieties in challenging situations, such as organic farming or low-productivity areas. This recommendation is based on the idea that modern varieties have been developed considering their response to fertilization and tested in more optimal conditions. However, this does not guarantee that an ancient variety will perform better in harsh conditions. In any case, it would depend on the variety, both ancient and modern, and would need to be studied. It’s also essential to consider the possible disease resistance of different varieties, among other factors, not just yield.

But the main reason ancient wheats are back in fashion is the belief that these wheats are nutritionally superior. This idea has been supported by effective communication targeting a certain sector of the population by wheat producers. This is a delicate issue that has been the subject of numerous research studies and literature reviews. However, no matter how much scientific evidence exists, it’s challenging to reason with people who staunchly believe in these nutritional benefits. However, in our case, it’s necessary to analyse this with a bit more depth.

Do Ancient Wheats Really Have Nutritional Advantages?

Advocates of ancient wheats claim that these wheats are rich in vitamins, minerals, omega-3 fatty acids, bioactive compounds, and other positive attributes. But they also claim that they help against certain diseases and are much better tolerated by individuals with gluten sensitivity. These claims, among others, can be found on certain websites.

Firstly, it’s important to compare these products with existing counterparts in the market. It’s incorrect to compare wheat with other cereals like rice or maize or to compare whole grain products with white flour. Therefore, for a fair comparison, we should compare the components of whole grains or whole wheat flour from ancient wheats to modern ones. It’s crucial to remember that they are all wheats, and in fact, no differences have been found in their macromolecular composition. The only apparent difference is the lower fibre content of ancient grains compared to modern ones, which would favour modern varieties. However, this difference is not very significant.

It’s true that research articles can be found stating that ancient wheats have some nutritional advantages over modern ones. What advocates of ancient wheats often don’t mention is that in almost all cases, there are also articles stating the opposite. The reason for these discrepancies is the enormous genetic variability and the small number of varieties studied in each research paper. For example, we know that there are darker and lighter wheats today. In fact, Americans classify them as red (darker) and white (lighter). And we know that darker varieties are richer in polyphenols and antioxidant substances. These compounds can be beneficial to health but often worsen organoleptic quality. If we compare the polyphenol composition of ancient wheats only with dark varieties or only with light varieties, the results can be very different. Similarly, Kamut or Emmer are ancestors of modern durum wheat. Therefore, a comparison with soft wheats is not “fair.” Some studies claim that these wheats are very rich in carotenoids, but the same is true for modern durum wheats. These carotenoids are responsible for the yellowish colour of pasta.

In general, we cannot assert that there are significant differences between the nutritional values of ancient wheats and modern ones, nor can we claim that the former have any advantage in terms of digestibility or acceptance by individuals sensitive to gluten. And it must be made clear that these wheats would never be suitable for people with celiac disease. There are differences between varieties, both among ancient ones and among modern ones, and between ancient and modern varieties, but clear differences between ancient and modern ones have not been demonstrated globally. It should also be noted that, although a study may mention significant differences, this does not mean that the differences are important. The term “significant” is a statistical term and only indicates that differences can be asserted. Thus, a difference of 0.1% in protein content may be significant but not important. Most studies that find significant differences do not find important differences, and the impact of these on our diet will not be very noticeable.

Having said all of the above, we cannot deny that there are people who claim to feel better after changing their diet and substituting traditional bread for others made from ancient wheats. In this case, we cannot rule out the placebo effect, which is based on the idea that things we believe to be beneficial for our health can have a positive effect. This effect is well-known and considered in most drug trials, where a placebo is administered to some of the subjects, compared to the effectiveness of the product being studied. We should also not rule out the nocebo effect, which means that if someone believes something will harm them (in this case, traditional bread), it ends up harming them. It’s also possible that the differences between breads are not solely due to the wheat variety studied, but rather that those made with ancient varieties have been fermented more slowly or have other differences in processing or wheat cultivation that we do not know about.

In general, more in-depth and much broader studies (with greater varietal diversity) are needed to assert that ancient wheats present nutritional advantages over modern ones. After studying their components, studies with patients should be conducted to verify the possible effectiveness of a dietary change.

One Last Drawback

Finally, we must mention that the primary use of wheat flours is for baking. Gluten forms during this process, and the characteristics of wheat proteins play an essential role. Millers blend different varieties to obtain regular flours adapted to the different needs of each process and each customer. However, in the case of ancient wheats, the variety of wheat types available is much more limited, making it more challenging to obtain consistent, quality flours by mixing and adapting these blends based on flour functionality analyses. Therefore, obtaining regular quality flours is more complex.

In conclusion, ancient wheats can adapt to a more artisanal process, with organic productions, less aggressive and environmentally friendly processes (stone milling), and the production of bread with long fermentations. They can fit into a certain lifestyle philosophy. But it must be clear that the alleged nutritional advantages often claimed in certain forums are not proven.

For further information:

Arzani, A; Ashraf, M (2017) Cultivated ancient wheats (Triticum spp.): A potential source of health-beneficial food products. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 16:477-488.

Boukid, F; Folloni, S; Sforza, S; Vittadini, E; Prandi, B (2018) Current trends in ancient grains-based foodstuffs: Insights into nutritional aspects and technological applications. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 17:123-136.

Dinu, M; Whittaker, A; Pagliai, G; Benedettelli, S; Sofi, F (2018) Ancient wheat species and human health: Biochemical and clinical implications. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 52:1-9.

Shewry, P.R. (2018) Do ancient types of wheat have health benefits compared with modern bread wheat? Journal of Cereal Science, 79:469-476